With the Pride
As I approached the border crossing to Botswana, I was told it was too late to cross. Ignoring them, I continued to the edge of the river to wait for the next ferry. It was 5.30 PM, and I was told the border would close at 6 PM. However, as the ferry landed from the Zambian side, it switched off its engines. There was profuse yelling from people now in the same situation as me, stuck in no-mans land between two borders. There were no hostels or guesthouses in this area, and I was alone, armed with just two backpacks and a small amount of cash.
Two African guides were arguing with the guards about the difference in operating hours, so I decided to join them. After over an hour of arguing, they agreed to run one last ferry across the River Chobe. This, of course, came with a catch. Stuck, in no position to argue, and now facing police armed with AK-47s, we "offered" them some "overtime compensation" to cross the border. I barely had enough cash, so I was allowed to go with the two African guides that I had no befriended. It was a close call, but it all worked out ok. It was the first "offering" I have had to make on my travels, and it probably won't be the last.
The previous guesthouse I had stayed at in Kasane was full, but the owner offered up a couch in his own quarters so I could catch some sleep before the long drive back to South Africa, a gesture that was definitely appreciated. After a few hours of sleep, I got back into my little car and began the twelve-hour journey to Pretoria, South Africa's capital. All of the driving went quite smoothly, and because of my trip up the same road only days before, I managed to avoid all the potholes and elephant crossings. With the crime rights in and around Pretoria and Johannesburg at an all time high, I headed straight to my hostel to prepare for the following morning's adventure.
The Ukutula Conservation Center is a big cat conservation on the outskirts of Pretoria, housing all of the African cats commonly seen in the wild: lions, cheetahs, and jaguars. There were also some hyenas and Bengal tigers at the sanctuary, as they are crucial to their ongoing research with animal diseases. The center also provided an incredible opportunity for me that morning. First, I went on a bush walk with the lions. When I initially heard about this, I presumed I would be in some sort of vehicle behind the lions as they patrolled their territory. It was, in fact, a walk. Being only a few feet from three large male lions was exhilarating. Even though they were trained to obey their guides, I was still warned that they are still indeed wild animals, and to not do anything to set them off. I was swift to oblige!
Next, I got to visit the rest of the big cats. However, my favorite encounter was my one with the cheetahs, pictured above. With all of the research being conducted at the sanctuary, the cats are generally "used to" humans. That being said, I was told cheetahs are also the calmest cats of the lot, and least likely to attack you. As you can see in the photo, I was lucky that this cheetah was more interested in tasting my hand than taking a bite out of it. Having the opportunity to be this close to the animals, without having them in chains or being prodded (as you commonly see in Southeast Asia), was a truly rewarding experience. The beauty and power of these animals can really be appreciated when you can feel their presence and breath on your very skin.
It was an incredible day, and a unique experience to finish up the first half of my African road trip. After a night's rest, I headed to Johannesburg airport to drop the car off and fly to Port Elizabeth to begin the latter half of my African journey.